The Separation

Breaking the news that there’s a male lion in the area often creates pandemonium in a game reserve. To me it is almost more interesting watching the people’s various reactions and responses to the sighting than the sighting itself.

I had spent a morning game drive searching for lions and eventually found a pride sleeping under a tree. I knew they would most likely still be there by the time evening game drive arrived. Sure enough, they were still sleeping, under the same tree.

Not too long after arriving at the sleepy felines, a roar of a male lion was heard about 1km further down the road close to a waterhole. We made our way in that direction and were the first vehicle to respond. We searched around the waterhole and eventually saw the cat bolt from the bushes. We followed him and found him resting under a relatively thick bush.

The sighting was called in and another vehicle responded. Knowing that the lion came from the waterhole allowed us to be patient as we knew he would most likely head back there for a drink.

In came the other vehicle. Without regard for us and our sighting (which we gladly shared), it came crashing through the bushes. As if the lion was going to bolt again. It was puzzling to see that they were satisfied with the worst sighting of this apex predator. Soon after arriving, they pulled out and disappeared. I wondered why they had come there in the first place. Not even 5 minutes later, the lion started moving. It got up, made its way past our vehicle and headed back in the direction of the waterhole.

We turned around and made our way to the opposite side of the waterhole where we were sure he would arrive shortly.

Our patience had paid off. In stumbled a very thirsty lion as the sun had started to set. Once again we were the only vehicle at the sighting. The light had started to turn a soft, golden hue and the heat of the day started to subside.

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This male lion must have been without water for some time as he spent close to 10 minutes just lapping up water and staring our way. The wait was well worth it and I wouldn’t have traded off any other potential sighting for this one.

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Staring into the eyes of a lion, even if it is separated by a body of water, is an incredible experience. It just boggles my mind that some would pass up such a great opportunity.

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​Eye to eye

Walking around in the bush and being able to get close up to wild animals provides such a rush.

At a recent drinks break while on safari I came across two Black Backed Jackals lazing about near our spot. One of the jackals took a great interest in our presence and decided to come investigate. These little creatures are truly fascinating to watch. It seems as if every move of theirs is a calculated one.

I managed to find a bush where I could hide behind to try and make my presence less known. The jackal approached, cautiously, but with great interest. For a while it paused, probably calculating, and went to rest under a nearby bush. I was not as stealthy as what I had thought and soon the jackal and I locked eyes. 

It is really fascinating to watch the behavior of animals change once they’ve seen you watching them, especially when on foot. As soon as the jackal saw me it got up and started to move away. 

The inquisitive nature of the jackal persisted. It still kept a watchful eye and moved away for a few paces. Then it seemed uncertain about retreating and came closer for a few paces. Then it would back off again.

After enjoying this little interaction I decided to give the animal some space and headed back to the vehicle.

Hopefully another hooked lip

One thing that has always boggled my mind is how far some people wish to drive while on safari. Sometimes there’s enough to be seen in the immediate vicinity around the lodge/camp.

After one very entertaining morning game drive it was time to head back to the lodge for breakfast. The guide headed towards the lodge, but deliberately missed the turnoff. I found this odd, but felt assured that he had done so for good reason. We headed down the road and turned into a track leading into the bush.

I would never have guessed what roamed so close to the lodge. A short distance into the bush, out in the open, was a magnificent female Black Rhino.

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This beautiful, critically endangered creature was casually moving from shrub to shrub feeding, uncharacteristically, in the open. The black rhino prefer to be hidden away in thicker vegetation. We repositioned the vehicle to get a better view and not to disturb her browsing break.

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What was sad about this specific rhino is that she has given birth to two calves before, but she was unable to raise them successfully. The guide said that they were not sure why the calves had not survived, but they hope that she will produce another youngster and hopefully raise it to adulthood this time around.

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I truly hope that I’ll have the privilege to see this rhino again and hopefully she’ll have a strong, healthy calf by her side yet again.

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Marching in

Arriving at a waterhole with an elephant bull wading in the water is such a pleasure to watch.

Marching In

A few minutes later I thought I heard something moving in the bushes around the waterhole. Seemingly out of nowhere a herd of elephants marched in. Then after that another small herd. Then another soon after that. They just seemed to stream in one after the other.

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I had no idea how many elephants were going to arrive. I was so excited I couldn’t decide which groups or individuals to photograph. There was so much going on, in and around the water.

Overall around 60 elephants came down to the water. Some came to drink. Some came to swim. Some came to coat themselves in mud. Some just came to socialise.

It was very entertaining watching the various social dynamics at play between different adults, sub-adults and calves.

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The only problem now is topping off a sighting like that at the waterhole again.

Distress Call

Waking up to the early morning sounds of the bush remains an incredible experience. However, hearing the distress call of an antelope, a few hundred meters outside of your lodge, immediately heightens all of your senses.

I’ve spent a wonderful week in paradise at the striking Toro Yaka Bush lodge in the Balule Private Game Reserve. While getting ready for one of the game drives at 5:20 am, I heard a distress call of what I first thought to be an Impala just outside the gate of the lodge. I knew something had gone down. The ranger quickly assembled all the guests and we headed off in search of this unnerving sound.

We circled one of the blocks, but couldn’t see anything through the thicket. Some impala were looking attentively in the direction from where the sound came. My adrenaline started pumping and excitement kicked in. Could it have been a kill? Was it a leopard?

We came through the block for a second round. Then all of a sudden the ranger paused, peered through the thick vegetation and remarked eagerly, “Wild Dogs on a kill”.

I couldn’t believe my luck! We approached the sighting and saw a pack of wild dogs frantically scurrying around. Barks and squeals consumed the air around us. It was manic, yet sensational. Then we spotted the victim. It was a female Kudu and there was already hardly anything left of her. This all happened in the space of around 20 minutes and the sun had only just started to reveal itself over the horizon.

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At this point I had to compose myself and take a moment to reflect on what it was that I was experiencing. I had only been fortunate enough to see these highly endangered wild dogs once before. Let alone feeding on a fresh kill.

The canines were moving around in all directions. Each one seemed to be carrying a bone or licking blood off of another family member.

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We witnessed the efficiency with which these dogs hunt and feed and it is astounding. They seemed to be content with their meal and started getting ready to move off while the crushing of a few bones was still heard in the back ground. We moved out of the sighting and carried on with our drive.

This was an incredibly rare event to witness and I will always cherish the memory of standing at the gates of Toro Yaka and being startled by that mysterious, thrilling sound.

Embarrassed Lioness

When the bush decides to deliver, it really delivers. Even during a thunderstorm.

I had the opportunity to go on a night drive after a lion sighting was called in over the radio. It was extremely hot with temperatures around 40 degrees Celsius. About 20 minutes into the drive, the storms clouds started to build and the temperature quickly dropped.

We made our way to the waterhole where the lions were spotted. Just before we got there, it started pouring down with rain. When approaching the sighting, I saw something much larger than a lion at the waterhole. I couldn’t believe my eyes. It was a Black Rhino standing in the open. We hastily made our way towards it. Then we stopped.

Close to the rhino we saw two male lions lying down. Then two lionesses approached the rhino. They circled it and tried to look for a gap. The rhino stood its ground and ensured that the lionesses understood where they stand. The felines backed down and the rhino exited the area.

The clouds had developed to its fullest and a thunderstorm had broken out over the horizon. I was still sitting in the rain at this point.

After taking a quick water break, the lionesses wouldn’t give up. There was a lone wildebeest nearby. Both cats went into stalk mode and tried their luck. Unfortunately the wildebeest saw them coming from afar and headed off. At this point the males retreated into the bush so I lost sight of them.

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The felines looked as if they were going to call it quits for the night. As lions do, they plonked down, yawned and proceeded to have a nap.

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Or so I thought.

The duo got up again and moved off to another clearing. Unfortunately they messed up with some impala and a zebra yet again. To me it seemed as if they were becoming despondent and desperate. One of the females moved off towards a tree. Then she climbed up the tree and sat in it for a while.

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This looked like great fun, so the other female also wanted to join the action. She made her way up the tree too. Unfortunately for her, she fell out soon after.

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I didn’t see them attempt to hunt any further that night. It was such an incredible experience being able to watch these lions in action with the dramatic backdrop of the thunderstorms over the horizon.

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Warning 

One of the most fascinating aspects of being in the bush must be a sense of the unknown.

Tracking animals and eventually finding them feels like one of the most rewarding activities. My Friday morning started with some signs of elephants and there was word that they were fairly deep into the reserve. So this became the mission for the day.

After some time trying to navigate the map and following piles of dung, a trumpeting call echoed through the bush. I stumbled across a small herd of around five elephants. They seemed really relaxed and content. 

I watched as they casually fed amongst the trees and slowly made their way across the road and back. All of a sudden, a young male bull emerged from the thicket and wanted to investigate. These young guys are rather haughty and love trying to intimidate you with any chance they get. It approached the safari vehicle, flapped its ears, grabbed a trunk full of sand and threw it all over the vehicle. 



Feeling very proud with its accomplishments, the youngster walked past me and wandered off into the bush.

It still amazes me how quiet and stealthy these giant beasts are. Sometimes they’ll be standing right next to you in between some bushes and you can hardly see or hear them. If it wasn’t for the cracking of branches and the odd rumbling, it would be as if they were nonexistent.